Hungry pilgrims

During the pandemic, it is impossible to do Camino de Santiago, the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, which dates back to the 9th century. For many people, it is a spiritual pursuit; for others, like Robert and me, it is a cultural adventure. We chose the Portuguese costal route, from Porto in Spain to Santiago, and in 12 days we walked 280 km. I could write a book about, but this is not the place. Here, I want to share our culinary experiences. Right now, you can walk a virtual Camino, and I applaud the creators of this. However, nothing will make up for the sites you see, the people you meet, the adventure, even the blisters (badges of honour), and, finally the food along the way.  

When at the end of the day you check into the pilgrims’ hostel, you leave your backpack and go to town for dinner, often with other pilgrims you just met. Most restaurants around have special pilgrims’ menus, fresh, local, delicious dishes at a very reasonable price. On our first day the dinner consisted of fresh bread, fresh fish (caught that morning), rice, salad, dessert, coffee, wine, and it cost less than 10 euros. Since we chose the costal route, we often enjoyed fish and seafood. But no matter what we ate, it was always a fresh homemade meal, flavourful and delicious, made from local ingredients. Of course, after walking all day with a big backpack, on various terrains, and in the heat, each pilgrim worked out a huge appetite. We would meet in local eateries, share stories from the day’s walk, talk and laugh, and plan for the next day. Some of our favourite dishes along the way were:

In Porto, before we started the walk, we ate at a small restaurant recommended by a local. We were the only foreigners there. The feast included homemade sausage, octopus salad, cabbage with chickpeas, and chicken gizzards stew. All excellent.

Pulpo a la gallega, octopus Gallician style. Fresh octopus is boiled in salt water, then cut in medallions and served with good olive oil and some paprika. By far my favourite dish in Northern Spain.  

Muscles, in many places along the coast. Freshly caught, just with lemon and good local white wine.

Salpicón – seafood salad. I am salivating as I write this. 

Pimientos al padrón: small peppers just roasted and sprinkled with salt. Very flavourful. You never know if you will get a sweet or spicy one, and that’s part of the fun. 

Tapas. In Spain, when you order a drink, you get some tapas, whatever the chef prepared that day.  

For dessert, of course, churros with thick hot chocolate. Or tarta de Santiago, a tart made mostly of almonds.

My list seems to have no end, so I better stop here. Throughout the trip, we tasted countless fantastic dishes. The culinary experiences very much enriched our Camino. I would return to each one of those restaurants and family diners without hesitation.